Board and batten calculator: spacing, count and boards
Enter the wall and the spacing you would like. This finds the batten count that divides the wall evenly, the marks from one corner, the boards to buy, and a true-size spacer block to print.
Corner to corner — 12' works
Floor to ceiling, or to where it stops
A 1x3 is 2 1/2" wide, dressed
1 is plain vertical battens; 2 or more adds a grid
Advanced settings5 1/2" baseboard · batten in each corner · 1x4 top rail
= 5.5"
A batten hard in each corner — the usual accent-wall look
10 battens across 144"
13 1/4"gap
Battens
10
On centre
15 3/4"
Material
84.5 lin ft
Cut list
- Battens, 1x3Baseboard to the underside of the top rail
- 10 × 87"
- Top rail, 1x4Full width of the wall
- 1 × 144"
- Boards for the battens1 per board
- 10 × 8' 1x3
- Board for the rail
- 1 × 12' 1x4
Marks from the left corner
- Batten 1
- 0" → 2 1/2"
- Batten 2
- 15 3/4" → 18 1/4"
- Batten 3
- 31 7/16" → 33 15/16"
- Batten 4
- 47 3/16" → 49 11/16"
- Batten 5
- 62 7/8" → 65 3/8"
- Batten 6
- 78 5/8" → 81 1/8"
- Batten 7
- 94 5/16" → 96 13/16"
- Batten 8
- 110 1/16" → 112 9/16"
- Batten 9
- 125 3/4" → 128 1/4"
- Batten 10
- 141 1/2" → 144"
Every mark is measured from the same corner, not from the batten before it. Hook the tape once and mark them all along a level line, then plumb each one down — a sixteenth of error per batten is most of an inch by the far corner.
Spacer block, at true size
Not the whole wall — the marks above cover that, from one corner of the tape. What is worth printing is the gap, so you can cut two scrap blocks to it and set each batten off the last one, top and bottom, faster than measuring and without the creep. Print at 100%, check the ruler, then cut.
Put a tape on the printed ruler. If it does not read exactly 6 inches, the print was scaled — set the print dialog to 100% or “Actual size” and print it again. Do not cut wood from a template that failed this.
Cut two blocks to this length. Hold one at the top and one at the bottom of the last batten, butt the next one against them, and nail. Trim on the orange line and butt this piece to the next one — the marks either side of the join have to line up before you drill anything.
Cut two blocks to this length. Hold one at the top and one at the bottom of the last batten, butt the next one against them, and nail. Trim on the orange line and butt this piece to the next one — the marks either side of the join have to line up before you drill anything.
Before you nail anything
Find the studs first and mark them on the ceiling and the baseboard. Battens are light enough for construction adhesive and 2" brad nails into drywall, but nailing into a stud wherever one lands under a batten is what keeps them from springing at the ends.
Corners are rarely plumb. Scribe the corner battens to the wall rather than trusting the width at one height, and measure the wall at the top and the bottom — lay out to the smaller reading.
Where to buy this
- 10 × 8' 1x3Home DepotLowe's
- 1 × 12' 1x4Home DepotLowe's
Primed finger-jointed pine and MDF strips both work on an interior wall; what you buy is your call, the count is not.
Plain search links, nothing sponsored. Prices and stock are the shop's, and a local lumberyard will usually beat both on solid stock.
Worked example: a 12 ft accent wall in 1x3 battens
Aiming for 16" on centre across 144", the closest even layout is 10 1x3 battens (2 1/2" wide) with 13 1/4" gaps, 15 3/4" on centre, a batten in each corner.
Each batten is cut 87", standing on the 5 1/2" baseboard and stopping under a 1x4 top rail: 84.5 linear feet in all.
Buy 10 × 8' 1x3 and 1 × 12' 1x4.
- Battens
- 10
- Gap
- 13 1/4"
- On centre
- 15 3/4"
- Batten length
- 87"
These are the figures the calculator above opens on. Change any field and it works the same problem for your numbers.
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About board and batten
- How far apart should board and batten be?
- Anything from about 12" to 24" looks deliberate, and 16" on centre is where most accent-wall plans start. It is a starting point rather than a rule, because it almost never divides the wall evenly: on a 12' wall with 1x3 battens in both corners, 16" on centre becomes 10 battens at 15 3/4" on centre, with 13 1/4" gaps. Wider gaps read as modern, narrower as traditional.
- How do I space battens evenly across a wall?
- Decide the count, not the gap. Take the wall width, subtract the width of every batten, and divide what is left by the number of gaps — one fewer than the battens when there is a batten in each corner. Then measure every mark from the same corner rather than from the last batten, so a sixteenth of error does not add up across the wall. The calculator tries the counts either side of your target spacing and keeps the one nearest it.
- What size boards are used for board and batten?
- 1x3 or 1x4 for the battens on an interior accent wall, and often a 1x4 or 1x6 for the top rail. Nominal sizes are not actual ones: a 1x3 is 2 1/2" wide and a 1x4 is 3 1/2", which is the width the layout has to use. Primed finger-jointed pine and MDF strips both work indoors.
- Should there be a batten in each corner?
- Usually, yes — a batten tight in each corner makes the ends of the wall look intended, where a part gap against the corner reads as a mistake. If the wall ends against door casing or a side trim board that already frames it, a full gap at each end can look better. The calculator does either; corners are rarely plumb, so scribe the corner battens to the wall.
You might also need
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- Trim and baseboard calculatorLinear footage of flat trim for a room from its perimeter and its doorways, with a waste allowance.