Board and batten calculator: spacing, count and boards

Enter the wall and the spacing you would like. This finds the batten count that divides the wall evenly, the marks from one corner, the boards to buy, and a true-size spacer block to print.

13 1/4"1x3 battens144" wide96" high1x4 top rail5 1/2"
in

Corner to corner — 12' works

in

Floor to ceiling, or to where it stops

Batten size

A 1x3 is 2 1/2" wide, dressed

in
Measured

1 is plain vertical battens; 2 or more adds a grid

10 battens across 144"

13 1/4"gap

Battens

10

On centre

15 3/4"

Material

84.5 lin ft

Cut list

Battens, 1x3Baseboard to the underside of the top rail
10 × 87"
Top rail, 1x4Full width of the wall
1 × 144"
Boards for the battens1 per board
10 × 8' 1x3
Board for the rail
1 × 12' 1x4

Marks from the left corner

Batten 1
0" → 2 1/2"
Batten 2
15 3/4" → 18 1/4"
Batten 3
31 7/16" → 33 15/16"
Batten 4
47 3/16" → 49 11/16"
Batten 5
62 7/8" → 65 3/8"
Batten 6
78 5/8" → 81 1/8"
Batten 7
94 5/16" → 96 13/16"
Batten 8
110 1/16" → 112 9/16"
Batten 9
125 3/4" → 128 1/4"
Batten 10
141 1/2" → 144"

Every mark is measured from the same corner, not from the batten before it. Hook the tape once and mark them all along a level line, then plumb each one down — a sixteenth of error per batten is most of an inch by the far corner.

Check this first
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Put a tape on the printed ruler. If it does not read exactly 6 inches, the print was scaled — set the print dialog to 100% or “Actual size” and print it again. Do not cut wood from a template that failed this.

One gap, spacer length — piece 1 of 2, 0" to 6 5/8" across the strip
0

Cut two blocks to this length. Hold one at the top and one at the bottom of the last batten, butt the next one against them, and nail. Trim on the orange line and butt this piece to the next one — the marks either side of the join have to line up before you drill anything.

One gap, spacer length — piece 2 of 2, 6 5/8" to 13 1/4" across the strip
13 1/4"

Cut two blocks to this length. Hold one at the top and one at the bottom of the last batten, butt the next one against them, and nail. Trim on the orange line and butt this piece to the next one — the marks either side of the join have to line up before you drill anything.

Before you nail anything

Find the studs first and mark them on the ceiling and the baseboard. Battens are light enough for construction adhesive and 2" brad nails into drywall, but nailing into a stud wherever one lands under a batten is what keeps them from springing at the ends.

Corners are rarely plumb. Scribe the corner battens to the wall rather than trusting the width at one height, and measure the wall at the top and the bottom — lay out to the smaller reading.