House numbers spacing template
Enter your address, the character width and gap, and the space you're mounting on, and this centers the run and works out each character's left edge. Print the strip below at true size to mark it instead of eyeballing it.
From the numeral set's own spec
The post, fascia board or wall space they're centered on
Total width, centered
15"
The layout in numbers
- "1"Left edge, from the run's left end
- 4 1/2"
- "2"Left edge, from the run's left end
- 8 1/2"
- "3"Left edge, from the run's left end
- 12 1/2"
- "4"Left edge, from the run's left end
- 16 1/2"
Marking strip, at true size
Wider than one sheet, so it prints across 4 pieces you butt together. Print at 100%, check the ruler, then hold it level and mark each character's left edge.
Put a tape on the printed ruler. If it does not read exactly 6 inches, the print was scaled — set the print dialog to 100% or “Actual size” and print it again. Do not cut wood from a template that failed this.
Each tick is a character's left edge. Level the strip against the mounting surface before marking. Trim on the orange line and butt this piece to the next one — the marks either side of the join have to line up before you drill anything.
Each tick is a character's left edge. Level the strip against the mounting surface before marking. Trim on the orange line and butt this piece to the next one — the marks either side of the join have to line up before you drill anything.
Each tick is a character's left edge. Level the strip against the mounting surface before marking. Trim on the orange line and butt this piece to the next one — the marks either side of the join have to line up before you drill anything.
Each tick is a character's left edge. Level the strip against the mounting surface before marking. Trim on the orange line and butt this piece to the next one — the marks either side of the join have to line up before you drill anything.
Printing this properly
In the print dialog, set the scale to 100% or “Actual size” and turn off “Fit to page”. Measure the printed ruler with a tape before you trust the spacing.
About mounting house numbers
- Why center the numbers instead of starting from one edge?
- A run of numbers started flush against one edge of a post or a fascia board reads as off-balance the moment you notice it, the same way an off-center picture does. Centering splits the leftover space evenly on both sides, which is what makes a house number set look chosen rather than merely placed.
- Does it matter that a "1" is narrower than an "8"?
- This assumes every character in the set is the same width, which is true for the vast majority of house number kits sold as a matching set — even a narrower digit like "1" is usually mounted on a plate or backing of the set's standard width. If your set genuinely varies character to character, treat the width here as the widest one and expect a little extra breathing room around anything narrower, never less.
- What if the numbers don't fit the space I have?
- Something has to give: a smaller character size, a tighter gap between characters, or a wider mounting surface. This flags it rather than centering an overflowing run, because a set that doesn't fit needs a decision made before anything gets stuck to the wall.
- Where should house numbers be mounted?
- Wherever your local address ordinance requires visibility from the street — many require a minimum character height (commonly 3" to 4") and reflective or contrasting numbers, and some fire codes are stricter still. Check with the local building or fire department rather than assuming a national standard, because house numbering rules are set locally.