What miter for a corner that isn't 90 degrees?

Half the angle left over from a straight line: a 92° corner is cut at 44°, not 45°. The rule, a table of measured corners, and how to measure the corner you actually have.

Cut each piece at half of what is left from 180° — a 92° corner takes 44.0° per side, not 45.0°.

The two pieces split the joint between them, so each one is cut at (180 − corner) ÷ 2. Getting this right is the difference between a trim job that looks sharp and one that looks approximate.

How that is worked out

  1. Flat trim — baseboard, casing, chair rail — never leaves the plane of the wall, so the joint is only ever a miter. No bevel, no compound anything.
  2. The two halves of the joint have to add up to the turn the corner makes, and they split it evenly: (180 − corner) ÷ 2 each.
  3. A 90° corner gives 45.0°, which is why 45 is the number everyone knows. A 92° corner gives 44.0° — one degree, and visible across a room as a wedge of daylight at the top of the joint.

Miter per side, by the corner you measured

Miter per side, by the corner you measured
Measured cornerMiter per sideOff 45°
85°47.5°+2.5°
88°46.0°+1.0°
89°45.5°+0.5°
90°45.0°0.0°
91°44.5°-0.5°
92°44.0°-1.0°
95°42.5°-2.5°
135°22.5°-22.5°

Worth knowing

  • Measure the corner rather than assuming it. A bevel gauge held against both walls and read on a protractor takes ten seconds; a digital angle finder does it directly. Drywall corners are routinely a degree or two out and a corner with built-up compound in it can be worse.
  • Measure at the height the trim sits, not at eye level. A bowed wall gives a different angle at the floor than at the ceiling, and baseboard cares about the floor.
  • Split the difference on a wall that changes along its length: cut the joint for the angle at the joint, and let the flat of the board bridge the rest.
  • This is flat trim only. Crown leans out from the wall and needs a miter and a bevel together — that is the crown molding calculator.