Chisel and hinge mortise
Where the top, bottom and middle hinge go on a passage door, why the layout is not symmetrical, and the one number a mortise chisel actually has to hit.
Five and ten, not halfway
A butt hinge on a passage door is not spaced off the door's height — the top and bottom hinges sit at fixed setbacks that have nothing to do with how tall the door is, and only a third or fourth hinge, if the door is tall enough to need one, gets spread evenly between them.
The setbacks are asymmetrical on purpose. The bottom rail of a panelled door is wider than the top rail, and a hinge screwed into the joint between rail and stile would be biting end grain. Five and ten put both leaves in solid stile instead.
- Top hingeto the top of the leaf, always
- 5" down from the top of the door
- Bottom hingeto the bottom of the leaf, always
- 10" up from the bottom
- 80" door, two hingesneither one moves if the door gets taller — a third hinge would split the gap between them
- 5" and 66 1/2" from the top
Size comes off thickness and width, not height
The leverage trying to pull a hinge's screws out of the jamb grows with how far the door's weight sits from the hinge pin, which is a function of the door's thickness and width, not how tall it is. A standard 1 3/8" interior door takes a smaller hinge than a 1 3/4" solid-core or exterior door, and a wide door on either bumps the size up again.
Count is the other half, and it does come off height: one hinge for roughly every 30" of door, with two as the floor even on a short one.
- 32" x 80", 1 3/8" interior doorThe standard 1 3/8" hollow-core interior door up to 36" wide.
- 3 1/2"
- 36" x 80", 1 3/4" exterior door3 hinges at this height
- 4"
The mortise is one number
Depth is exactly the leaf thickness, and that is the whole of the decision — not the hinge's overall width, not a round number that looks close. Cut shy of it and the door will not close, because the two leaves bind on each other before the door reaches the jamb. Cut deep and the hinge binds the other way, straining its screws every time the door shuts.
The direction to err, when the gauge line is a hair uncertain, is shy rather than deep: a hinge sitting slightly proud can be shimmed out with cardboard behind the leaf, and a mortise cut too deep cannot be un-cut.
- 3 1/2" hingethe leaf thickness, set with a marking gauge rather than read off a tape
- 0.085" deep
- 5" hingeDoors over 42" wide or over 2" thick — commercial weight.
- 0.19" deep
What this page does not tell you
- Convention and manufacturer practice, not code. A fire door, a commercial opening or anything on a closer is governed by its own listing and hardware schedule.
- Cabinet doors on concealed European hinges are a different problem and need no mortise at all — see the cabinet hinge calculator, not this one.
- A router with a hinge template and guide bushing cuts a cleaner, more consistent mortise than a chisel alone on a run of doors, but the depth rule and the five-and-ten layout are identical either way — the tool changes, the numbers do not.
The calculators that do this arithmetic
- Door hinge mortise and placement
Butt hinge size, count and the five-and-ten layout for a passage door, with the mortise depth.
- Cabinet hinge count and placement
Hinge count from door height, and where each one sits down the door.
- Cabinet boxes
A carcass cut list from the finished outside dimensions, face-frame or frameless.
Worth having on paper beside the tool
Where to buy this
- Butt chisel setHome DepotLowe'sAmazon
- Marking gaugeHome DepotLowe'sAmazon
- Hinge mortise templateHome DepotLowe'sAmazon
These search the category, not a model — this site has no test bench and does not rank tools.
Plain search links, nothing sponsored. Prices and stock are the shop's, and a local lumberyard will usually beat both on solid stock.