How do you scale up a pattern from a drawing?

Draw a grid over the small pattern, draw a bigger grid on the work, and copy square by square. How to work out the big square size, and what the scale factor tells you.

A 1/4"-square grid, 16 squares wide, blown up to 32" means drawing the big grid at 2" a square.

That is a scale factor of 8×, and the pattern comes out 20" tall.

How that is worked out

  1. Count the squares across the printed pattern rather than measuring it. The count is exact; a measurement off a photocopy is not.
  2. Divide the finished width you want by that count: 32" ÷ 16 = 2" per square.
  3. The height follows automatically — 10 squares at 2" is 20" — which is the whole advantage of the method: the proportions cannot drift.

Big-square size for a 1/4" grid pattern, by square count and finished width

Big-square size for a 1/4" grid pattern, by square count and finished width
Squares across16" wide24" wide32" wide48" wide
82"3"4"6"
101 5/8"2 3/8"3 3/16"4 13/16"
121 5/16"2"2 11/16"4"
161"1 1/2"2"3"
2013/16"1 3/16"1 5/8"2 3/8"
2411/16"1"1 5/16"2"

Worth knowing

  • Number the rows and letter the columns on both grids before you start. Losing your place halfway through a cabriole leg is how a pattern ends up subtly wrong in one spot.
  • Mark where the curve crosses each grid line, then join the marks freehand. Copying the crossings is accurate; trying to copy the whole curve by eye is not.
  • A photocopier or projector is faster and this is still worth knowing, because both distort — a photocopier stretches slightly in the feed direction, and a projector has to be perfectly square to the surface or the pattern comes out trapezoidal.
  • Cut one template in thin ply or hardboard, fair the curve with a spokeshave until it looks right, and use it for every copy. A fair curve matters more than a faithful one.